After 20 years, this beauty from Angelo Gaya is on a full-maturity plateau that is very soft on the palate, but with concentrated fruit expression complemented by subtle oak influence. The closest comparison for me is Chateau Latour, which is rarely overblown in terms of alcohol or extraction and delivers clear and precise fruit expression. This wine is a masterpiece -- many thanks to John Berghoff and John Robb for sharing it! $350; 97 points

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