One of the most interesting bottles at Quentin's tasting was the Quinault L'Enclos a stylish wine that utiziles modern garagiste methods. The vineyard, in the suburbs of Libourne, was in danger of becoming a sub-division before it was purchased by Alain & Francoise Raynaud -- and they saved an 18 hectare, 50 year old vineyard. The 2000 shows ripe dark red fruit, a mature body and mouthfeel, and wonderful integration and understated use of oak. Seems like it's drinking at or near peak maturity already -- the tannic structure doesn't imply that this wine will be better after another 15 or 20 years in the cellar. This was the best QPR wine on the French side of our tasting. $90; 93 points
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