Faint white melon nose, light yellow fruits and honeysuckle on the palate, clean finish. This Sauvignon Blanc from Barnard & Griffin (Robert Mondavi came up with the name "Fume Blanc" years ago because he thought it would be easier for Americans to pronounce and remember) is not as compelling as the British Columbia whites (chardonnays), and not in the class of New Zealand or Sancerre -- too fruity, not enough minerality or grassiness. $13; 87 points

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