2004 Mitolo 'Serpico' Cabernet Sauvignon McLaren Vale

This was my first taste of the "Serpico" (named after the NY police officer who "went against the grain" to expose corruption), and it did McLaren Vale proud.   This wine likewise goes against the grain in Oz.  Pruned to 2 tons/acre, the winemakers are really committed to quality fruit, which sometimes gets lost in the mix in Oz, where overripe fruit and heaps of new American oak are the key ingredients.    This fruit was handled like Amarone, drying on racks for weeks before vintification.   The resulting flavors are also Amarone-like: coffee, black licorice and earth all compliment the black fruit.   $48; 92 points