Eric Porres pulled this distinctive beauty out of his cellar for us at his down-under tasting -- the first of what I hope will be many great parties at their new home. I've had Elderton's "Command" a few times before, and each time it was really huge, pushing extraction to the limit. I was happy that this was not the case in 2001 -- the wine is expertly balanced and at or near peak maturity. Beautiful dark red fruit, with light spice and a Bordeaux-like finish with hints of suede and sandalwood. If I were drinking this blind I'd guess it were a '96 Bordeaux. $85; 94 points
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