Hawk Hill Vineyard is close to my heart because the vineyard's owner sold me a ton of pinot noir in 2004. The Chardonnay is wonderful (I've tried all of them since 1999), showing yellow and white fruits with fantastic minerality complementing the complexity of the fruit. It's a big "big" at 14.8%, but that doesn't detract from this masterfully crafted (and sparingly oaked) Chardonnay. $35; 94 points

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