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Artesa Reserve 2002 Carneros Pinot Noir

Carneros is known for bing cherry fruit and a "meatiness" or earthiness -- that nuance is missing here...

Don Van Staaveren tried to make a pinot that could age for many years but the fruit was buried in the effort and I doubt it will ever be able to fight through the oak.    Rough, heavy, over-oaked.   A bit disappointing.

$30; 88 points

Bottom Line:  This drinks more like a Syrah than a Pinot Noir.

Albert Ponnelle Les Marconnets Premier Cru 1999 Savigny Les Beaune

Marissa and I enjoyed this at Le Zinc, one of our favorite bistros in San Francisco.

Unlike many of the 99s that I've tasted, this one is already sleek and nutty -- tasting "classic Burgundian" traits that typically come through years later.   1999 was a monster-year that is typified by big structure -- and this bottling is very femine and understated.

$55; 89 points

Bottom Line:  This wine is difficult to find in the United States, and it's a bit expensive for the quality it delivers.

Robert Mondavi Oakville 1999 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Very dark color, deep toasty aromatics and heavy toast on the midpalate as well.   1999 was a near-perfect year for growing fruit in Napa, and this Mondavi Oakville has an abundance of dense black fruit that's overextracted and not-going-away-gracefully as the heavy oak starts to dominate.   This wine was never meant for the cellar, but it has held up fine, and will continue to drink well for another 5 years or so -- but it is in decline.

$47; 89 points

Bottom Line:   This wine is a bit clumsy, overblown fruit and heavy toast -- this reminds me of a 1998 Shiraz...

Henriot Souverain Brut NV

The Ambassador, at 673 Geary in downtown San Francisco, is a great place for a romantic drink close to Union Square.

The Henriot Brut is made from 60% pinot noir and 40% chardonnay.  It shows lemon rind, clear yeast, and nice acidity and balance.  100 years ago, it was the only wine served in Buckingham Palace (thus the word "Souverain" on the label).

$32; 90 points

Bottom Line:  Excellent value.

Artesa 1999 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

I am worried about these '99s because the fruit isn't coming through as much as it should be.  The nose implies fruit and balance, but the palate is all spice and leather -- an early sign that one of two things is happening:

1) the wine is still maturing, going through its normal peaks and valleys, and is now in a valley...

2) is falling apart under the weight of the oak (2 yrs) or is comprised of fruit sourced from mid or high tonnage/acre vineyards whose fruit isn't age-worthy.

$40; 87 points

Bottom Line:   This Artesa bottling was drinking much better three years ago than it is today.

Williams Selyem Flax Vineyard 2002 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

2002 was a fantastic growing year for Pinot Noir in Northern California (and Burgundy).   This single vineyard bottling from Williams Selyem shows more extracted fruit (despite its relatively low alcohol level at 14.3%) -- heavy black cherry, lots of oak influences, vanilla on the finish.

The mouthfeel is more Syrah or Zin than Pinot Noir.

$70; 89 points

Bottom Line:  This wine is a bit too heavy and overextracted for my tastes, but it is well balanced and will age well for the next 10 years (easily).

Clos du Val 1994 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Marissa and I enjoyed this bottle at Kookez Cafe in Noe Valley.   

1994 was a 5-star year in California and this bottle is drinking superbly now.   Showing mature black fruit, chocolate, leather, rounded tannins, long finish.

$85; 91 points

Bottom Line:   A good wine, from a great year, that is drinking at full maturity.

Chalone Vineyard 2004 Chalone Appelation Pinot Noir

Chalone has been one of the five or six California producers that I buy a case from every year.

Their 2004 has a dark hue and a forest-floor nose that is slightly hot.  On the palate there is a nice mix of black fruit and dark red fruit -- the kind of mixture I typically associate with RRV pinots that have seen more than 50% new French oak...

$14; 89 points

Bottom Line:  An excellent "everyday" wine -- one of the best values in California in the $15 range.

Belland Chambertin Grand Cru 1996

Marissa and I enjoyed this bottle at Lupa, a fun trattoria in Noe Valley.    Like most '96s -- this one shows a mouth-smacking acidity.  The fruit is young and fresh showing lots of soft red cherry, strawberry, cranberry.   Fantastic balance, femininity, fruit expression with little oak interference.

$90; 92 points

Bottom Line:   A wish I had more Burgundy from 1996, they have been fun to drink over the past few years...

Nicholas Potel Clos des Vignes Franches 1er Cru 1999 Beaune

Marissa and I enjoyed this bottle at Le Zinc, one of our favorite bistros in San Francisco.   

Like so many of the 1999s that I've opened -- this one, from Nicholas Potel, is also on the muscular side, with plenty of staying power and structure.   It is not a great wine (today), there is little nuance and the fruit is not singing -- my wonder is whether it's simply too young to properly evaluate now.

$40; 88 points

Bottom Line:  This is a below-average premier cru that likely would never have become a first rate Burgundy -- even with another 10 years in the cellar.