The Imperial is only produced "in great years" by the CVNE (Compania Vinicola del Norte de Espana), and it's somewhat of an icon in Spain. I first tasted it ten years ago in Madrid, from magnum, and it made a lasting impression on me...
Norm Page, who brought this wine, is a dapper-dresser from Northern California (who's pictured here with each of our hosts -- Dave and Lorea Morgan, in their beautiful apartment on Manhattan) .
This '96 (a thinner year after the nearly perfect growing conditions in '94 and '95) is a fully mature wine that's drinking well now. If I were tasting it blind, I would have guessed that it was syrah because of its rich texture, open-knit fruit-forward style, and substantial finish.
$55; 90 points
Bottom Line: A very rich, deep, and full-bodied Rioja (concentration is a rarity in Rioja) -- this is Rioja from a *maximalist* winemaker.
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